Fadi Quran’s first memory of the Israeli occupation is the Second Intifada. Ramallah, the de-facto capital of the West Bank and Quran’s home town, was under military curfew for weeks on end. Unable to buy necessary food staples because of the constant presence of Israeli tanks and soldiers, Quran’s family was literally starving. Driven by childhood immaturity and anger, Quran would collect trash in large boxes and place the boxes at the entrance to his neighbourhood. Suspecting the mysterious packages were bombs, the Israeli military would send in advanced robots to inspect the bags of trash. The operation would take hours, giving Quran’s neighbourhood valuable time to run out and resupply groceries before the tanks and soldiers returned and the curfew resumed.
There are no more curfews in Ramallah but for Quran the occupation is still a facet of his daily life. He relayed his childhood experience as we drove to the Qalandia checkpoint, the unofficial Israeli border between Ramallah and Jerusalem, which he is barred from crossing. For many Palestinians, Qalandia, with its imposing guard towers and military jeeps, is the physical embodiment of Israel’s control over their lives. Last May, 23-year-old Quran, along with other young political activists staged a massive demonstration at Qalandia. The goal of the demonstration was to enter Jerusalem but they were stopped by a hail of Israeli bullets and tear gas canisters.
The blue green mountains of the West Bank, the physical landscape of the Bible, have slowly transformed since Israel’s conquest of the territories in 1967 from idyllic rolling mountains into a series of disjointed hilltop Israeli settlements, settler only highways and Israeli checkpoints. The contrast between Palestinian villages and Israeli settlements is stark. The villages lazily fit into the landscape, often using mountaintops as protection from the harsh winds which rattle the area year round. Israeli settlements, in an audacious demonstration of their presence, sit squarely on mountains tops. Connecting these far flung villages and settlements are a system of roads and checkpoints which are constantly, relentlessly monitored by Israeli military jeeps.
Twenty four year old Diana Alzeer was almost born at an Israeli checkpoint. During the First Intifada, Alzeer’s village of Salafit, which sits quietly below Ariel, one of the largest settlements in the West Bank, was under constant curfew. As she went into labour, Alzeer’s mother was stopped at the entrance to the village by soldiers. While in labour, she was forced to sneak around the checkpoint, running through a ravine to a main road, until she reached a family friend who drove her to a local hospital.
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